How to apply lashes to downturned natural lashes

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April 4, 2022

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Professional spoolie collector, master lash artist + educator , founder, country music enthusiast and undisputed queen of branding. California native with a southern soul.
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When a client comes in with downturned natural lashes, I honestly get a little extra excited. This is because our before + after transformation will be even more satisfying. Downturned natural lashes can be extremely frustrating for clients and can be difficult to work with when using mascara and strip lashes at home. As lash artists, we have the opportunity to give them a look that better flatters their eye shape, and gives them a much more noticeable lash line. However, these downturned lashes can sometimes be a little tricky to work with. Here are a few tips on how to work with and apply extensions to downturned natural lashes.

  1. Modify your curl
  • Since we’re working with lashes that grow downward, we need to do everything we can as lash artists to create the illusion of more lifted lashes. Using a more dramatic curl such as D , L+, or M can help to make the lash line appear more lifted. Also, make sure to place the extensions on the TOP of the natural lash counteract the downward growth.
  1. Bump up your length just a smidge
  • The natural lashes we’re working with in a set like this require some modifications compared to our traditional mapping techniques. Since the lashes are growing downward, the extensions may end up looking a bit shorter on the eye. Bumping up your length by 1-2mm will help to make the set look more flattering and noticeable. It will also compensate for that lost length due to the downward growth. The last thing we want is to spend hours on a full set just to have our client open up their eyes for the final check, and have lashes that look like they’ve been mapped incorrectly. 
  1. Tape up those lids
  • Oftentimes when natural lashes grow straight down, they end up getting pressed up against our gel pads + tape. This can lead to difficulties isolating, and extensions getting stuck to the gel pads. The key to avoiding these issues is gently taping up the lid. De-stick a piece of sensitive, skin-safe tape (you can also use another gel pad or microfoam tape), place the end of the strip onto the lid, gently pull up, and place the tape back down., Be sure to make sure the eyes still remain closed. We don’t want to open them, we just want to gently lift the lashes off of the gel pad to make isolation and placement a bit easier.

If you thought downward natural lashes were intimidating, difficult, or even next to impossible, you’re not alone! But by using these simple techniques, your sets will come out much more flattering on your client, and you’ll feel much more fulfilled as an artist knowing that your sets are perfectly customized to your clients natural lashes. Extensions are not a one size fits all, every set of natural lashes is different and has its own challenges, but applying a few new tips and tricks to these sets can make a world of difference for yourself and your clients.

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